The smell and taste of breakfasts and snacks
The smell of churros runs every morning through the streets of Mñalaga. This Spanish traditional product cannot be out of any coffee shop and churrerías. Specially during the months of winter, when a plate of churros with chocolate is the best option to fight the cold, whethere it is first thing in the morning, for snack or at night. The historical tradition of churros in our country has produced different denominations, varieties and recipes: from the traditional ‘ruedas’, smaller and with a circular shape, to the famous ‘porras’, long and slightluy thicker, or the ‘churros madrileños’, with the shape of a bow. But if there is any variety hat can be consideres as the authentic churro from Málaga, that is the ‘tejeringos’. The tejeringos, also known as jeringos, are the traditional churros in the province of Málaga (and also common in other areas of the south of Andalucía).
It is a more complex and artisanal variety that has to be drawn entirely by hand. Its dough must be always fresh, unlike porras or churros than can be frozen. They get their name from the instrument in the shape of a syringe that is used to make them.
The tejeringos are today a product that can only be tasted in some churrerías of the province due to the amount of time that it elaboration requieres. However, the evolution of churros recipes has created new flavours and varieties: porras with filling and covered in chocolate or vanilla, churros with cinammon or churros with sugar, among others. Nevertheless, the most consumed varieties are still the traditional ‘ruedas’ and the ‘porras’. They both share a dough made out of flour, water, sugar and salt. The main difference between them is that porras have a very small amount of baking soda and the proportion of flour is slightly higher than in the churros. There is also a small different in their elaboration: they need different tools to pour the dough onto the oild and, in the case of ‘porras0m the dough is left to rest for a few minutes before frying it.
The tradition of ‘tejeringos’ churros in Málaga dates back from the 1960s. This variety of churros from Málaga has a thicker dough that the traditional churros. This was an advantage for those with lower incomes: less quantity will full their stomachs earlier. The ‘tejeringos’ were made into a bow shape to helpt its transportation. In order to do that, the churros were introduced into a reed branches. Following this method, they also saved paper when serving them.
A plate of churros cannot be understood without a good cup of hot chocolate, especially during the colder months. Salty and oily flavours from the churros and the bitter tone the chocolate offers are mixed with this combination. Drinking chocolate with churros is also a social event in Spain: an excuse to meet friends or families and talking while having breakfast or the afternoon snack. It is also the traditional breakfast for young people before going to bed after a night out.
There are some places in Málaga that have become sacred places for churros and chocolate lovers. Also for tourists that come to the province and, due to the fame that surrounds these places, they cannot miss the opportunitny of enjoying the flavour of their churros. In the capital, there are some establishments that have been filling the streets with the aroma of churros for decades—traditional coffee shops where every variety of the churros can be tasted and where each of them has their own unique taste.